Txhob Cia Zam East qhov kev ua yeeb yam zoo heev AW21

2023 Tus sau: Mary Ward | [email protected]. Kawg hloov kho: 2023-05-21 20:24

Los ntawm Goom Heo thiab Maximilian, mus rau qhov tshiab ntxiv HRH thiab Jawara Alleyne, lub caij no cov kab-up kaw LFW nrog lub suab nrov

Kaw London Fashion Week down rau lwm lub caij nag hmo yog Fashion East - qhov twg Lulu Kennedy cov neeg ua haujlwm motley ntawm lub nroog cov hnub qub ci ntsa iab tau nthuav tawm qhov lawv tau ua haujlwm rau AW21. Nrog Goom Heo thiab Nensi Dojaka ua lawv qhov thib peb tshwm sim ntawm kab thiab SS21 newbie Maximilian Davis nyob ib puag ncig rau lub caij thib ob, koom nrog lub sijhawm no yog CSM grad thiab ci hnub qub Jawara Alleyne thiab dab accessories designer HRH. Nov yog qhov lawv yuav tsum tau qhia rau lawv tus kheej.

MAXIMILIAN DAVIS

Yog tias koj xav tias Maximilian Davis qhov kev tshwm sim lub caij dhau los yog qhov zoo, tsuas yog tos kom txog thaum koj pom qhov ua raws. Muaj tseeb tiag los rau hauv nws tus kheej ib puag ncig ob, tus tsim qauv Manchester-yug tau nthuav tawm cov ntawv sau zoo nkauj uas nquab mus rau qhov chaw hnub nyoog futurism ntawm nruab nrab-1960s, thiab tshawb nrhiav, ib zaug ntxiv, cov kev paub ntawm nws tus pog Trinidadian, uas tau tsiv mus rau UK. nyob ib ncig ntawm lub sijhawm no. Teeb duab kev tshoov siab los ntawm cov duab ntes nws hnav khaub ncaws nyob rau hauv nws hnub Sunday zoo tshaj plaws, tus tsim qauv rov txhais cov khaub ncaws puag ncig thiab kab tiab ntawm lub xyoo 60s nyob rau hauv qhov tob tob, nrog cov buckled minis offset los ntawm sculpted, batwing tsho thiab viav vias-y flared disco ris matched. nrog pristine cinched tailored tsho.

Rounding yam tawm yog psychedelic motifs swirled hla ob daim tawv nqaij leggings thiab swimsuits txuam nrog ua yeeb yam, showgirl-esque feathered headpieces thiab scuba lub qhov ncauj qhov ntswg tsim los ntawm Nasir Mazhar. Raws li lub caij dhau los, styling tuaj ntawm Dazed editor-in-chief Ib Kamara. Nrog cov neeg Dub feem ntau sau tawm ntawm lub sijhawm zam keeb kwm, Davis piav qhia nws qhov kev muab AW21 yog ib txoj hauv kev los rov qab cov lus piav qhia: "Lub sijhawm ntawd zoo kawg rau kev zam, thiab tshwj xeeb tshaj yog hauv kev nthuav tawm cov poj niam muaj zog thiab muaj zog. Nws tsis ncaj ncees rau kev tshem tawm Dub ntawm zaj dab neeg ntawd."

NWS DOJAKA

Ua kom nqaij qaib, sheer sexiness nws kos npe rau ntawm ob peb lub caij dhau los, AW21 pom CSM grad Dojaka ntxiv rau nws cov khoom siv tes ua. Nyob rau hauv ib phau ntawv uas hais txog cov kab pyrotechnic thiab cov kev paub daws teeb meem ntawm tus kws kos duab Hilma af Klint, tag nrho nws cov khoom lag luam tau tshwm sim: nrog pom cov seams, slender linear straps, thiab diaphanous, daim duab-caressing slips tag nrho cov tseem ceeb. Nrog nws qhov kev muab hloov pauv los ntawm kev txhaj tshuaj tshiab ntawm cov xim, ib qho hnav ris tsho ua tiav nrog cov paj ntaub zoo li lub tsho txiav tawm thiab lub tiab mini ua rau nws qhov kev nthuav tawm hauv lub siab tawv fuchsia tua los ntawm xiav "yog li nws hloov pauv raws li lub teeb," designer piav.

Lwm qhov, cov tshuaj pleev ib ce ntawm cov khoom txiav kuj tau tshwm sim, nrog cov ntse ntse, cov tsho zoo nkauj, lub duav siab siab tuxedo minis, thiab tuxedo trousers languid tuxedo ua lub zoo meej ntawv ci rau ntau sensual thiab intricate bodywear pieces. Kuv ib txwm xav tsim cov qauv tsim tshwj xeeb uas txhawb nqa kev noj qab haus huv thiab lub zog, "nws hais.

HRH

Raws li ib qho ntawm lub caij no ob Fashion East newbies, HRH (los yog, raws li nws paub, Hannah Hopkins) tau kos rau nws cov kev paub dhau los ua ib tus kws ntaus kis las qub los tsim cov khoom sib tw haum rau kev sib tw ncaws pob fantasy ntawm nws txoj kev npau suav. Txaus siab rau "lub sijhawm thaum pab pawg tsis nyob hauv dej khov, lossis hauv tsev hais plaub, tab sis txhua tus tau nce lub dav hlau ua ke los yog tos nyob rau ntawm qhov kev sib tw rau cov txiaj ntsig", nws qhov kev sau pib pib hla dhau 'kev ua si nawv' thiab hloov mus, khawb tob rau hauv cov ntsiab lus..

Txoj kev sib tw thoob plaws uas tsim lub hauv paus ntawm txhua tus neeg ncaws pob lub hnab ntxhua khaub ncaws tau tawg mus txog XXL qhov sib npaug thiab siv los txiav knickers thiab hnab looj tes, thaum lub khob ntim ntawm lub duav hauv pouffy, pastel-coloured pouches, thiab cov hnab ntim me me yog slung ncig lub cev - nrog rau tag nrho cov sau ua ke los ua ib txheej ntawm "muaj hmoo ntxim nyiam" zoo li cov khoom sau ntawm kev mus ncig lossis ncig ncig.

GOOM

Tom qab nug yav dhau los Dazed 100-er Goom Heo dab tsi nws nyiam ua yeeb yaj kiab txaus ntshai kawg Halloween, zoo li peb yuav (!) tau txais cov cogs hauv nws lub siab tig. Tshaj tawm nws qhov kawg Fashion East muab ua ntej ya lub zes, South Kauslim tus tsim qauv tau muab nws tus kheej mus rau sab tsaus ntuj lub caij no, channeling Robert Weine's classic horror flick Lub Txee ntawm Dr. Caligari rau hauv ib qho kev sib tw, tawm-kilter. Nrog nruj, nruj denim ris tsho hnav ris tsho sib tw nrog striped wool sweaters thiab cov phuam qhwv caj dab uas tau nkag mus rau hauv lub cev, cocoon tsho loj nrog sib sib zog nqus, dome-zoo li hoods tau ib txhij foreboding thiab tiv thaiv, tso cai rau tus qauv rov qab mus rau hauv lawv cov quav thiab nkaum tawm ntawm kev puas tsuaj..

Muaj keeb kwm tsom mus rau cov khaub ncaws hnav, lub caij no, tus txiv neej GOOM tau koom nrog tus ntxhais GOOM tsis meej, txhais tau tias nws yuav nthuav dav kom pom qhov twg tus tsim qauv siv yam khoom thaum nws ya solo rau SS22.

JAWARA ALLEYNE

Tshiab tawm ntawm Saint Martins tau kawm tiav thaum muaj kev kub ntxhov ntawm 2020, Alleyne yog tus thib ob ntawm Lulu Kennedy cov neeg ua haujlwm tshiab. Yav dhau los tuav lub iav magnifying mus rau txiv neej raws li ib feem ntawm nws MA sau xyoo tas los, lub caij no pom nws delve ntxiv rau hauv nws cov lis dej num thiab dismantle raws li.

Rau AW21, hnyav hnyav upcycled ris ntauv txhav los ntawm legendary 90s denim daim ntawv lo Sean John zaum nyob rau hauv stark sib piv nrog skimpy paj rwb-doily cropped-sab saum toj thiab crocheted vests, thaum slashed-rau-tus-navel sleeveless tsho tes tsho yog tucked rau hauv slouchy ob -waisted trousers nrog iridescent beetle-tis sheens, raws li ib feem ntawm ib tug sau uas weaves thiab cua nws txoj kev los ntawm ntau facets ntawm masculinity los qhia zaj dab neeg ntawm 'ib tug txiv neej tshiab'. Tias qhov kev cia siab ntau lub npe yog Renegade yuav tsum tuaj raws li tsis muaj surprise, muab tus txiv neej hnav Alleyne yog raws nraim li ntawd - thiab txhua yam zoo siab rau nws.