Tracing Virgil Abloh txoj haujlwm dhau los ntawm nws cov qauv zoo tshaj plaws

2023 Tus sau: Mary Ward | [email protected]. Kawg hloov kho: 2023-05-21 20:24

Los ntawm Ikea cov ntaub pua tsev mus rau Louis Vuitton harnesses, peb rov qab saib cov neeg tsim qauv rov qab zoo tshaj plaws

Tias Virgil Abloh yog tus tsim qauv tseem ceeb tshaj plaws ntawm lub xyoo pua 21st tsis yog qhov kev xav xwb. Los ntawm Pyrex, mus rau Been Trill, mus rau Off-White, mus rau Louis Vuitton, Abloh rov txhais tau tias nws txhais li cas los ua khaub ncaws, txawm tias ua haujlwm hauv kev zam rau me ntsis ntau tshaj kaum xyoo. Hu rau Abloh tus tsim qauv zam, txawm li cas los xij, yog txwv. Nws zoo li DJ. Feverish hauv nws cov khoom tsim tawm, nws ua qauv suab paj nruag, kos duab, kos duab, thiab kev zam, tsim kev sib koom ua ke ntawm kev sib koom tes thiab cov khoom siv niaj hnub. Nyob rau hauv lub siab tawv thiab elasticity ntawm nws xyaum, nws zoo li yog Abloh ib txwm paub hais tias nws cov hnub nyob rau hauv lub ntiaj teb no yuav mus txog thaum ntxov. Ntev ua ntej ib daim ntawv uas tsis tshua muaj thiab hnyav heev ntawm mob qog noj ntshav ua rau nws lub neej rau hnub kawg.

Tus kws tshaj lij pej xeem los ntawm kev lag luam, Abloh txoj haujlwm zam tsis tau pib txog thaum muaj hnub nyoog 29 xyoo thaum nws tsaws haujlwm ua haujlwm ntawm Fendi nrog Kanye West (uas twb tau ua haujlwm nrog Abloh ob peb xyoos ntawm qhov no). Raws li nws tau sawv thiab tsoo los ntawm kev zam lub gilded tawb, Abloh tau dhau los ua ib qho chaw rau cov neeg nyiam hnav khaub ncaws, hypebeasts, thiab cov neeg uas tau raug kaw tawm ntawm kev lag luam. Tab sis feem ntau ntawm Abloh txoj haujlwm tau ntsib nrog kev thuam, tshwj xeeb ntawm Off-White, tshwm sim los ntawm qhov pib ntawm kev tshem tawm kab lis kev cai thiab kev ntxub ntxaug kev thuam ntawm plagiarism peddled los ntawm cov nyiam noj Prada. Txawm li cas los xij cov kev hais lus cim hoodies thiab Hacienda-striped txoj siv sia, uas muaj ntau yam sniffed ntawm, nquag ntes tus1 qhov chaw ntawm Lyst's Index ntawm qhov kub tshaj plaws nyob rau hauv lub ntiaj teb no.

Abloh lub hwj chim tau hauv paus hauv kev sib txuas lus. Nws cov qauv tsim teeb tsa txoj kab ncaj nraim rau cov tub ntxhais hluas thiab nws lub xub ntiag yog thawj tus neeg Dub los ua lub taub hau khoom kim heev, Louis Vuitton, yuav luag talismanic. Nws yuav yooj yim los piav txog Abloh cov keeb kwm tsis tseem ceeb vim qhov no - ib yam dab tsi txog qhov nws sawv cev thiab cim - tab sis nws lub cev tsim (khaub ncaws, sab hauv, album artwork, thiab ntau ntxiv) yog cov cuab yeej tiag tiag uas nws tau tawg thiab. yaj teeb meem. Hauv qab no, peb taug qab Abloh txoj haujlwm thiab zam hneev taw los ntawm nws cov qauv tsim tshwj xeeb, los ntawm Lub Neej ntawm Pablo mus rau Louis Vuitton.

Saib lub zwm txwv

Hauv xyoo 2011, Kanye West ntiav Abloh ua tus thawj coj muaj tswv yim ntawm nws lub koom haum muaj tswv yim, DONDA, qhov uas nws yog lub luag haujlwm rau tsim cov nkauj npog npog - ntawm lawv "Yeezus" thiab "Kuv Zoo Nkauj Tsaus Twisted Fantasy". Ntawm Abloh kev sib raug zoo nrog tus rapper, txawm li cas los xij, kev kos duab rau "Saib Lub Hwj Chim" yog kab tias yog ib qho tseem ceeb tshaj plaws. Nrog kev pab los ntawm Riccardo Tisci, Abloh conceptualized lub kub-foiled artwork rau Jay Z thiab Kanye qhov project, tau qhab nia tus tsim ib tug Grammy nomination rau Best Recording Package.

PYREX PLAID

Hauv xyoo 2012, Abloh tau nthuav tawm nws thawj daim ntawv lo. Lub npe hu ua Pyrex Vision, nws lub ntsiab lus tseem ceeb yog kev tshuaj ntsuam luam ntawv logo rau hauv Champion t-shirts thiab deadstock Ralph Lauren flannels, thiab txawm tias tus nqi qis tshaj (cov flannels muag rau ntau tshaj $ 500) nws muag tawm, tsim Abloh lub debut platform thiab cov neeg tuaj saib. "Pyrex yog super, zoo li super, luv-minded. Koj paub, nws zoo li qhov tsis sib xws ntawm qhov no yog dab tsi…,”tus tsim qauv hais rau Dazed thaum nws coj Off-White rau Paris Fashion Week. Nrog rau daim ntawv emblazoned nrog thaiv "23" tsab ntawv - ib tug nod rau Michael Jordan - Pyrex tsim Abloh cov lus nraaj-hnyav. "Qhov kev ua yeeb yam no - nyob hauv Paris thiab qhia txog kev sau thiab txhua yam - yog txhua yam tshwm sim los ntawm qhov kev txiav txim siab luam tawm ib lub tsho, koj paub - tsis txhob tso nws rau ntawm tus neeg kos duab ntawm lub laptop. Zoo li, cia li tawm mus ua nws."

QHOV CHAW UA HAUJ LWM

2013 pom qhov pib ntawm Abloh's Off-White daim ntawv lo. Lub hauv paus ntawm hypebeast kab lis kev cai, Off-White propelled streetwear rau hauv siab zam thiab nws cov daj, Hacienda-striped industrial siv los ua ib tug era-defining accessory. Lawv tau nthuav dav thoob plaws hauv nruab nrab mus rau xyoo 2010s thiab embodied Abloh lub peev xwm los txhawb kev thov thiab ntes cov zeitgeist los ntawm megamixing siab thiab qis kab lis kev cai. Revered ntau npaum li nws tom qab reviled, Off-White siv yog Abloh wielding nws nkag mus rau hauv lub mainstream.

KANYE'S "LIFE OF PABLO" MERCH

Alongside Cali Thornhill DeWitt, Virgil Abloh muaj cov kiv cua suab paj nruag, nrog rau hypebeasts, queuing ncig lub block rau Kanye's "Lub neej ntawm Pablo" khoom muag. Qhov no, ntxiv rau lub tswv yim ntawm cov khw muag khoom luv luv thiab cov khoom lag luam poob qis, txhais tau hais tias cov khoom lag luam tau muaj, thawj zaug, ua raws nws tus kheej nrog txhua qhov kev qhuas ntawm cov khaub ncaws. Thoob plaws hauv nws txoj haujlwm, Abloh khoov cov ntsiab lus ntawm cov khoom kim heev zam kom deb ntawm cov khoom siv tes ua thiab mus rau lub tswv yim - kev txav mus los ua piv txwv los ntawm qhov yuav tsum muaj-kev sib koom ua lag luam.

NIKE TEN

Nyob rau xyoo 2017, Virgil Abloh pom nws tus kheej ntawm lub luag haujlwm ntawm Nike qhov kev sib koom tes loj tshaj plaws, kev sib koom ua ke thiab xim liab-plastic-tagged Nike cov cim cim, suav nrog Vapormax, Airmax 90, Air Jordans, thiab Air Max. Raws li streetwear infiltrated runways thiab rov txhais lub ntsiab lus ntawm cov khoom kim heev, Abloh txoj kev sib raug zoo nrog Nike pab cemented khau ntaub raws li ib tug raug cai nyob rau hauv lub realms ntawm high fashion thiab kos duab. "Qhov peb tab tom tham txog ntawm no yog qhov loj dua li khau ntaub, nws loj dua li kev tsim kab lis kev cai," Abloh hais thaum lub sijhawm. "Cov khau 10 no tau rhuav tshem cov teeb meem hauv kev ua tau zoo thiab cov qauv. Rau kuv, lawv nyob rau theem tib yam li cov duab puab ntawm David lossis Mona Lisa."

THE IKEA COLLABORATION (2018)

"Ib yam li koj tuaj yeem dai ib daim duab kos duab rau ntawm koj phab ntsa, kos duab tuaj yeem ua rau cov khoom xws li lub rooj zaum, rooj, lossis ntaub pua plag," Abloh hais ntawm kev nthuav tawm nws kev koom tes nrog IKEA xyoo 2018. Crafted li ntawd. Cov hluas, cov kiv cua uas tsis muaj nyiaj tsawg tuaj yeem yuav rau hauv Abloh lub hlwb, Markerad ntau yam suav nrog cov ntaub ntawv txais nyiaj, "SCULPTURE" hnab, thiab "WET GRASS" cov lev ntsuab. Ironic, thiab ua tau zoo li ntawd, Abloh feem ntau piv nws tus kheej rau Duchamp, postmodernist txuam nrog meta-irony thiab tso zis. Qhov tseeb, Alboh tso dag tias Duchamp yog nws tus kws lij choj, piav qhia nws lub peev xwm los nqus cov cuab yeej txawj ntse ua ntej rau hauv nws tus kheej cov ntaub ntawv siv.

ARC'TERYX TULLE GOWN

Thaum Lub Xya Hli 2021, LVMH tau txais 60 feem pua ntawm cov ceg txheem ntseeg hauv Off-White, uas tsis yog tshwm sim los ntawm, tab sis txawm tias muaj hype uas ncig lub hom. Nyob rau hauv nws cov collections kawg, Abloh hloov zuj zus thiab txhim kho raws li tus tsim qauv - silhouettes tau ua ntau intriguing, nws eschewed ib co ntawm cov duab-hnyav khaub ncaws ntawm yav dhau los collections - thiab, vim li ntawd, yav tas los thuam tau hloov dua siab tshiab rau hauv cov kiv cua. Lub tsho Arc'Teryx ntawm SS20 yog quintessentially Abloh (kev saib xyuas nrhiav kev luam-muab tshuaj, kev teeb tsa ntawm ib hom ntawv, kev mob siab rau cov ntawv tshiab) tab sis pov thawj zoo dua, tej zaum zoo dua sab rau lub hom, uas tuaj los txhais ob peb yam dhau los. caij nyoog – tsam peb tsis nco qab nws khoom plig rau Ntxhais fuabtais Diana rau SS18.

SERENA WILLIAMS 'US OPEN KIT

Abloh hnav khaub ncaws Serena Williams dub, ballerina-style tennis tiab rau 2018 US Open, ib daim los ntawm nws tus poj huab tais Collection nrog Nike, uas tau piav qhia los ntawm Abloh li "ploj kab ntawm kev ua si nawv thiab zam". Ua kom tiav nrog lub tiab flaring tulle thiab lub caj npab ntev tsis sib haum, cov khoom siv yog tenacious thiab whimsical, piv txwv li txoj hauv kev uas Abloh pheej rov hais dua rau tus neeg Dub - txawm tias sab nraum zam. "Nws tsis yog hais txog lub tswb thiab xuav thiab ua kom yuam kev," Abloh hais txog tus qauv tsim. "Nws tsuas yog hais txog nws nyob hauv lub cev, thiab qhia Serena tus ntsuj plig nrog txhua lub viav vias ntawm racket."

LOUIS VUITTON HARNESS

Lub sijhawm hloov pauv keeb kwm tau tshwm sim thaum ntxov 2018, thaum Abloh tau tshaj tawm ua tus thawj coj ua yeeb yam tshiab ntawm Louis Vuitton cov khaub ncaws hnav. Xa tawm ib phau ntawm Kid Cudi, Dev Hynes, Steve Lacey, thiab Theophilus, Abloh qhov kev muab tau pom hulking accessories hloov mus rau hauv lub tsho thiab lub tsho thaum amply-cut tailoring taug qab cov xim ntawm zaj sawv - nws tus kheej reimagining ntawm Wizard of Oz.. Tus tsim qauv lub tsho monogrammed tau dhau los ua Nws-khoom ntawm kev ua yeeb yam thiab cog qoob loo ntawm ntau cov ntaub pua plag liab thoob plaws xyoo tom ntej, qhia txog lub sijhawm tshiab rau Fabkis lub tsev zam. Raws li nws tau nyob hauv nws lub luag haujlwm ntawm Louis Vuitton, koj yuav luag xav tias Abloh lub luag haujlwm hloov ntawm kab lis kev cai hloov mus rau tus kws qhia ntawv; nws tau caw ntau txhiab tus tub ntxhais kawm zam rau thawj qhov kev ua yeeb yam LV, kos lub ntees nrog daim duab ntawm nws tus kheej thaum lub sijhawm kawg uas tau hais tias "Koj tuaj yeem ua tau thiab."

THE LOUIS VUITTON CITYSCAPES

Virgil Abloh tsuas yog pib los rau hauv nws tus kheej ntawm Louis Vuitton, uas ua rau nws tuag ntau lub siab. Kev sib kis tau pom tus kws tsim qauv tsim qee yam ntawm nws cov haujlwm zoo nkauj tshaj plaws thiab nthuav tawm rau hnub tim. Ib qho ntawm cov yeeb yaj kiab luv luv - Zoo meej Contrast, Perfect Light thiab Amen Break - tau deft nyob rau hauv lawv reconstruction ntawm txiv neej archetypes, dub protagonist, thiab subculture. Nyob rau hauv Zoo Tshaj Plaws Zoo Tshaj Plaws, Lub Teeb Zoo Tshaj Plaws, cov qauv hnav ris tsho zoo li lub nroog zoo nkauj, nrog 3D cov tsev tacked rau saum ntuj tsho zoo li leathery Lego. Lawv tau muaj neeg coob coob thiab ntim khoom, feem ntau thawb tawm tsam ib leeg thiab tawm ntawm ntau lub ces kaum, uas tej zaum yuav zoo li clumsy, tab sis nws yog tus yam ntxwv ntawm Abloh lub ntiaj teb tsim. Ntawm ib lab lub tswv yim ib zaug, ntawm txoj kev tsim tuaj yeem nres Lub Scroll.

TRACK-SUIT OF AMEN BREAK

Raws li Abloh tau hloov zuj zus lawm, nws kuj ua rau nws cov neeg siab phem heev. Cov uas tej zaum yuav raug nqus los ntawm Off-White txoj siv phom sij tam sim no sib cav Rick, Demeulemeester, thiab Yohji ntawm HFT. Nws paub qhov no. Thiab rau cov neeg no (uas tsuas yog pom nws txoj haujlwm hauv 2D) nws tau ua qhov kev xav zoo nkauj. Nws cov yeeb yaj kiab, lossis cov yeeb yaj kiab, tau ntim nrog cov ntaub ntawv zais, cov qe Easter, thiab cov kernels ntawm kev paub uas hauv internet scrambled rau decipher. Ua ke nrog Dazed editor ntawm tus thawj coj IB Kamara - uas nws tau coj los ua stylist - Abloh hloov subculture rau hauv ib yam dab tsi solemn. Txawm tias nyob rau hauv kev nruj kev tsiv ntawm cov haiv neeg counterculture nyob rau hauv Amen Break (nws zaum kawg qhia thaum nws tseem ciaj sia) tus tsim imbued metalheads thiab acid ravers nrog zoo siab. Ntawm no, Abloh lub dav-legged, siv hlua khi, uas nws tau ua si nrog txij li nws thawj lub caij, mus txog qhov kawg. Cov khoom uas nws hnav thoob plaws hauv Paris Fashion Week SS22, cim nws qhov kev tawm mus zaum kawg. Qee qhov ntawm cov khaub ncaws ua lag luam ib txwm muaj thiab cov khaub ncaws hnav, tej zaum yog tus tsim qauv tsim kom muaj kev ruaj khov thiab pom tau sai sai - distilling nws txoj hauv kev tsis muaj ciam teb los tsim rau hauv nws daim ntawv purest.