Unpicking the cult style of Bowie's 1983 vampire ntshai heev

2023 Tus sau: Mary Ward | [email protected]. Kawg hloov kho: 2023-07-27 20:18

Hmo no, iconic goth movie Kev tshaib kev nqhis tuaj rau ICA - peb rov mus saib cov qauv ntawm nws cov neeg ua yeeb yam ntshav siab, ua si los ntawm Catherine Deneuve

Raws li ib feem ntawm lawv lub caij punk, hmo no ICA London yuav tshuaj xyuas Tony Scott's 1983 erotically them vampire ntshai heev The Hunger, starring Catherine Deneuve, David Bowie thiab Susan Sarandon. Renowned rau Top Gun thiab nws post-1986 blockbusters (Tus txiv neej ntawm Hluav Taws, Unstoppable), Kev tshaib kev nqhis yog Scott qhov kev sim ntawm lub tsev kho mob hloov tshiab ntawm hyper-sexualised bloodlust-sib ntsib-lust-rau-tawv nqaij vampire flicks ntawm 60s thiab 70s. Yog hais tias lub cam khwb cia (thiab lub zeem muag ntawm ib tug steamy kev hlub daim duab peb sab) tsis reel koj nyob rau hauv, nws yog yuav qhib scene ua. Teeb nyob rau hauv qhov tsaus ntuj tab sis glamorous ces kaum ntawm New York City club, John (Bowie) thiab Miriam (Deneuve) Blaylock tab tom tshawb nrhiav lawv cov neeg raug tsim txom tom ntej, soundtracked los ntawm kev ua haujlwm ntawm Bauhaus '1979 ib leeg, "Bela Lugosi's Dead", ib txoj kab. coined raws li ib tug harbinger ntawm lub post-punk goth zog. Seducing ob tug goth cov me nyuam hauv zos thiab coj lawv mus tsev, qhov txawv txav tsis zoo ntawm John thiab Miriam tso tseg txoj kev siv ntshav ntshav, es tsis txhob tho cov jugulars ntawm lawv cov neeg raug tsim txom siv cov neeg Iyiv thaum ub Ankh pendants. Meanwhile, qhov xwm txheej yog juxtaposed nrog footage ntawm ob tug liab nyob rau hauv ib lub tawb tearing ntawm ib leeg nqaij.

THE LOOK

Ntaus rau nws lub ntsej muag zoo nkauj thiab zoo nkauj daim ntawv pov thawj tawm ntawm qhov screen raws li muse ntawm Yves Saint Laurent, uas tsim nws cov khaub ncaws rau zaj duab xis, Deneuve tus cwj pwm Miriam tsis poob deb ntawm tsob ntoo. Nws tsis yog txhua txhua hnub koj pom ib tug vampire uas mloog Bauhaus thaum hnav tawv tawv, daim di ncauj stained los ntawm Chanel Rouge Passion (los yog ntshav), puas yog? Kev hnav khaub ncaws tsis zoo nrog kev xav phem, Miriam yog elegant, enigmatic thiab effortlessly stylish. Nws txawm tswj hwm txoj haujlwm zoo li tsis yooj yim sua ntawm kev txhawb nqa David Bowie tus cwj pwm John, hauv nws rab chais-ntse tailoring thiab tsaus, tsom iav dub. Nyob hauv Manhattan, ib puag ncig los ntawm Renaissance art thiab cov khoom qub Egyptian qub, Miriam lub cev qis qis nrog cov cuffs, tsom iav tsom iav qhov muag thiab lub kaus mom huab cua hauv lub caij qhib yog thawj zaug ntawm ntau lub sijhawm zam, ua tsaug rau Saint. Laurent thiab famed costume designer thiab Kubrick koom tes Milena Canonero. Hnav cov tsho tawv-lub xub pwg nyom, ris tsho hnav ris tsho, cov qhwv ntsej kub kub thiab cov ntaub thaiv npog dub, Miriam yog qhov classic noir femme fatale. Txawm hais tias muaj ntau yam ntawm nws zoo li hais txog kev xav ntawm lub xyoo 80s, cov qauv zoo sib xws nrog 30s thiab 40s kuj nkag mus, muab Miriam qhov kev thov tsis tu ncua uas tsim nyog thaum koj tsis txawj tuag.

THOV LOGIC

Nws yuav yog xyoo 80s hauv Manhattan, tab sis Miriam ruaj ntseg John cov hluas tsis nyob mus ib txhis nyob rau hauv lub xyoo pua 18th thiab muaj kev sib raug zoo uas rov qab mus rau Egyptian era. Nyob rau hauv lwm yam lus, nws wardrobe yog ib tug archive ntawm ua tib zoo curated tsoos tsho nrog ntev lub neej, as opposed to ephemeral tiam sis. Raws li ib tug vampire refined, nws lub ntsiab lus ntawm qhov txawv ntawm nws fanged European poj koob yawm txwv yog nws lub peev xwm los txhawb cov ntshav daim ntawv cog lus yam tsis xav tau ib tug tsaus cape thiab lub hleb mus so kom txaus thaum hmo ntuj. Npog nws cov ntshav siab tom qab daim duab ntawm ib tug tswv cuab ntawm Manhattan tus neeg saib xyuas, Miriam siv nws cov khaub ncaws, kev sib deev thiab kev zoo nkauj los hem nws txoj kev hlub, ntxias lawv mus rau hauv nws lub ntxiab zoo li vamp tiag. Ib yam li kev zam rov qab los rau nws tus kheej lub caij nyoog raws li lub caij hauv kev tshawb nrhiav qhov tshiab, Miriam glides hauv lub neej, tsis muaj kev ntshai ntawm kev tuag, nrhiav nws tus neeg raug tsim txom tshiab - thiab ib txwm hnav nws Egyptian Ankh pendant, npaj los hlais qhib caj pas rau noj tshiab..

NUB QUB KAJ NTUG

Txawm hais tias tau raug txiav ua lub thawv-chaw ua haujlwm dud hauv 80s, Kev tshaib kev nqhis tau khaws cov kev coj noj coj ua hauv qab 33 xyoo dhau los hauv qee lub voj voog. Nyob rau saum npoo ntawm zaj duab xis tackles kev hlub, mob siab rau, kev ntshaw kev sib deev, muaj thiab, feem ntau blatantly, peb ntshai ntawm kev laus thiab kev tuag, thaum tseem hais txog tib-poj niam txiv neej kev sib deev ntawm kev tshuaj ntsuam (tsis muaj tus txheej txheem ces-ib txwm siv ntawm lub cev doubles), nyob rau hauv dab tsi yog arguably zaj duab xis nto moo tshaj plaws scene. Lub caij no, Kev tshaib kev nqhis tau muab kev tshoov siab tsis kawg rau nws qhov kev ua yeeb yam ntawm qhov tsaus ntuj-yoj goth thiab vampiric zam, rau kev xaiv suab paj nruag - Bauhaus, David Bowie, Iggy Pop - thiab rau nws lwm txoj kev sawv cev ntawm vampire. Nws tseem tau hais los ntawm tus tshaj tawm hauv av lus dab neeg Fred Berger vim li cas nws tig nws qhov nyuaj tshaj plaws Zine Propaganda rau hauv phau ntawv Goth uas tau ua tiav.