Xya zaus Leigh Bowery tau tshoov siab rau txoj kev khiav

2023 Tus sau: Mary Ward | [email protected]. Kawg hloov kho: 2023-07-27 20:18

Los ntawm Alexander McQueen tus poj niam txiv neej daim di ncauj rau Charles Jeffrey lub club-catwalk fusions, lub cim taboo tau tso ib qho nplaum nplaum rau ntawm kev lag luam zam

Thaum lub sijhawm ua yeeb yam ntawm qhov txiaj ntsig ntawm AIDS thaum ntxov 90s, Leigh Bowery tig rov qab rau cov neeg tuaj saib, khoov duav, thiab cia rips, tshuaj tsuag cov ntsiab lus ntawm nws lub plab mus rau ib kab pem hauv ntej uas tsis xav tau. Thaum cov neeg saib tau sab laug splattered nyob rau hauv tshiab enema, thiab to taub tsis txaus ntseeg, Bowery tsuas shrugged nws: "Yog hais tias kuv yuav tsum nug yog hais tias lub tswv yim no mob dhau lawm, kuv paub tias kuv nyob rau hauv txoj cai," nws hais txog lub scatalogical da dej.

Nws tsuas yog lwm hnub ntawm qhov chaw ua haujlwm rau Bowery, ntau qhov kev ua yeeb yam hyphenate muaj koob npe rau qhov zoo nkauj zoo nkauj thiab muaj teeb meem kev ua yeeb yam. Hailing los ntawm ib tug pw tsaug zog Melbourne suburb hu ua Sunshine, Bowery thawj zaug tuaj rau London nyob rau hauv 1980 qhov twg, tom qab ib tug luv luv-nyob stint ua hauj lwm ntawm Burger King, nws ua nws lub npe nyob rau hauv lub underground club circuit. Nyob nruab nrab ntawm hmo ntuj ntawm Ntuj Ceebtsheej, Asylum, thiab nws tus kheej venture lurid, Taboo, Bowery pib radicalise nws tsos, hnav nws hulking 6'1 thav duab hauv gimp lub qhov ncauj qhov ntswg, towering platforms, thiab ratty pubic wigs. Qhov sib npaug ntawm kev txawj ntse, comic, thiab txaus ntshai, Bowery yuav them ib ncig ntawm cov dingy Soho haunts nyob rau hauv ib lub tswv yim ntawm cov khoom tsim, zoo li Mr. Blobby ntawm gak.

Nws tau kos qhov hauv nws lub plhu rau kev nyab xeeb-tus pin tho, gaffer kaw nws lub cev rau hauv cov silhouettes poj niam tsis tuaj yeem, thiab ntws nws cov pate pate hauv cov kua nplaum kub. Nws yog provocative rau lub ntsiab lus ntawm perverse, tag nrho theatricalization ntawm tus kheej. Nyob rau nruab hnub ho, Bowery tsim khaub ncaws rau Culture Club thiab Michael Clark lub tuam txhab ua las voos thiab dabbled nyob rau hauv kos duab taw qhia rau Massive Attack. Nws yog lub hnub qub uas tsis zoo li tab sis ci ntsa iab ntawm Pepe Jeans phiaj los nqis tes thiab, tau hloov nws qhov kev nthuav qhia ntuj rau hauv qhov chaw ua yeeb yam nyob hauv London's Anthony D'Offay gallery, tau los ua Lucian Freud's muse thiab cov ntsiab lus ntawm cov neeg pleev xim rau cov liab qab series.

Hauv xyoo 1994, Bowery dhau los ntawm AIDS-hais txog teeb meem, ib yam li kev kho mob sib xyaw ua ke tau pib ua kom lub neej ntev ntawm cov neeg nyob nrog HIV. Thiab thaum nws yuav tau ua npau suav Big Brother tus neeg sib tw lossis Good Morning Britain pundit, nws qhov kev xav tsis thoob tseem ua rau muaj stink rau ntawm txoj kev niaj hnub no. Hauv qab no, peb saib cov cim uas tsis tuaj yeem tshem tawm Bowery sab laug ntawm zam.

ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

Nyob rau xyoo 1994, Bowery's drag band Minty tau muab kev ua yeeb yam txhua lub limtiam ntawm Kev ywj pheej hauv Soho, nyiam ntau lub club cov menyuam yaus, cov tub ntxhais kawm kos duab, thiab cov neeg dag ntxias - ntawm lawv, ib tug hluas Lee McQueen. Nws yog qhov chaw nyob sai sai, txawm li cas los xij, sai sai los ntawm lub club cov tswv npau taws tom qab Bowery tau tso cov kua zaub rau hauv nws tus phooj ywg lub qhov ncauj - txawm hais tias Bowery tau liam tias "zoo siab rau me ntsis" uas nws cov stunts tau ua rau muaj kev xav tsis thoob.

Txawm li cas los xij, McQueen tau tso tseg kev tshoov siab. Raws li ib feem ntawm nws cov yeeb yam AW09, tam sim no iconic Horn of Plenty, cov qauv raug xa tawm alabaster daj ntseg nrog lacquered, loj, poj niam txiv neej daim di ncauj. Nws tsis yog piav tes piav taw rau Bowery xwb, tab sis nqa ncaj qha los ntawm tus kws kos duab lub cim lag luam thiab overdrawn, clownish mug. Nws ua rau kev nkag siab tias yog vim li cas - rau ob qho tib si Bowery thiab McQueen, lub cev yog qhov chaw ntawm kev ua txhaum thiab lawv cov qauv tsim ib txwm ua rau ciam teb ntawm tib neeg repulsion. Cov daim di ncauj tas luav no tau ua tus neeg nruab nrab ntawm cov glamourous thiab grotesque.

RICK OWENS

Rick Owens 'SS16 qhia cov qauv tshwj xeeb nrog cov gymnasts strapped thiab harnessed rau lawv lub cev. Nws yog qhov xav tsis thoob los saib thaum ntawd, thiab tseem ceeb dua rov qab rau hauv nruab nrab 90s thaum Bowery ua tib yam thaum nws yug los ua yeeb yam. Nws yog ib feem ntawm txoj kev niaj hnub uas Bowery yuav khi rau ntawm theem, bulging hauv lub tsho paj ntaub thiab balaclava, kis nws ob txhais ceg, thiab simulate kev yug menyuam. Tom qab ob peb feeb ntawm shrieking thiab shuddering, tawm tuaj nws tus khub, uas tau raug khi rau hauv qab Bowery lub tsho tiv no, smeared nyob rau hauv cov kua liab thiab xim av.

Nyob rau hauv kev xam phaj nrog The New York Times, Owens tau lees tias Annie Liebowitz portrait ntawm Bowery, uas nthuav tawm cov txheej txheem sab hauv ntawm qhov kev ua yeeb yam, tau tshoov siab rau qhov yeeb yam. Owens tseem raug liam tias tsim nyog los ntawm New York-based seev cev lub tuam txhab, FLUCT, uas tau ua yeeb yam txhawb nqa gymnasts zoo ib yam. Txawm li cas los xij, Owens tau hais lus ncaj ncees tias "lawv yuav ua rau kuv qhov kev paub dhau los lossis tej zaum yuav ua rau lawv pom tau ntau dhau. Kuv xav tias peb ob leeg khob Leigh Bowery."

CHARLES JEFFREY

Thaum muaj cov lus pom tseeb rau Aussie art-provocateur hauv Charles Jeffrey txoj haujlwm - xim ntsej muag xim, kev ua yeeb yam ntawm nws cov yeeb yam - nws yog kev sib raug zoo tom qab LOVERBOY sau (txoj kev uas queer nightlife tau hloov mus rau khaub ncaws) uas yog qhov zoo tshaj plaws ntawm Bowery.

Ob qho tib si Jeffrey thiab Bowery tus qauv tsim plooj ciam teb ntawm club thiab catwalk. Txawm hais tias kawm txog kev ua yeeb yam thiab kev ua yeeb yam, Bowery tsuas yog ua rau nws tus kheej. Txhua lub lim tiam nws yuav nqis los ntawm London cov queer clubs, debuting nws qhov tseeb thiab feem ntau outlandish designs. Ib yam li ntawd, LOVERBOY tau pib ua si hmo ntuj ntawm Vogue Fabrics hauv Dalston, uas hais txog kev hnav khaub ncaws, flamboyance, thiab poj niam txiv neej. Yog li txoj kev ob tus neeg tsim zam kos rau ntawm queer clubland, nws txoj kev xav ntawm kev tawm tsam, thiab kev hloov pauv tau. Nws yog ib yam dab tsi uas tseem txuas mus rau queer xyaum tom qab Hood By Cua, uas zoo nkaus li hais txog Bowery lub qhov ncauj qhov ntswg hauv nws cov khoom yuav los tom ntej, ib yam nkaus.

GARETH PUGH

Nyob rau xyoo 2007 kev xam phaj nrog Icon magazine, Gareth Pugh piav qhia txog kev sib piv ua rau Leigh Bowery li "kev sau xov xwm tub nkeeg". Qhov ntawd tau hais, nws kuj tau hais rau Tus Saib Xyuas hauv 2018 tias "tus cim" Bowery yog qhov kev siv tas li, hais tias tus kws kos duab tau "tsim nws cov lus" ntawm kev tsim.

Pom meej, muaj kev sib raug zoo ntawm Bowery thiab Pugh uas tsis kam lees. Qhov no yog qhov tshwj xeeb tshaj yog nyob rau hauv SS07, thaum Pugh styled nws daim nrog rubberised S & M gimp suits thiab high-flung ponytails, uas evoked Bowery lub iconic equine-kink creations, raws li lensed los ntawm Fergus Greer. Qhov nto moo tshaj plaws ntawm cov khoom noj no yog lub club-footed black cat-suit uas npog Bowery tag nrho lub cev, muab ib lub qhov me me ntawm lub qhov ncauj kom ua pa. Thiab qhov no yog undeniably echoed nyob rau hauv Pugh's '07 muab. Pom zoo, Pugh qhov kev tshoov siab rau cov zoo li no tuaj yeem los ntawm McQueen, lossis Galliano, lossis Owens, tab sis lawv txhua tus txuas rov qab mus rau lub club twisted fetish saib uas, tsis muaj Bowery, yuav tsis muaj nyob.

RICHARD QUINN

Qhov tsis ntev los no ntawm Bowery cov thawj coj yog, tsis muaj qhov tsis ntseeg, Richard Quinn. Tag nrho lub cev chintzy prints, PVC ris tsho hauv qab, thiab zip-los ntawm balaclavas tag nrho cov nod rau Bowery lub revolting kev sib deev zog. Quinn tau hais tias nws cov qauv tsim tau txais kev tshoov siab los ntawm cov duab ntawm tus kws kos duab Paul Harris. Txawm li cas los xij, txij li nws cov ntawv sau tsis ntev los no tau raug txiav los ntawm kev hais tawm zoo rau S&M, nws nyuaj rau disentangle cov duab ntawm Bowery los ntawm Richard Quinn sau.

Nyob rau hauv ib qho clip tsis tshua muaj los ntawm xyoo 1988 ntawm BBC One's The Clothes Show, Bowery coj peb mus rau Harrods, qhov chaw nws noj mov ntawm Georgian thiab twirls txog 50s tus poj niam hauv tsev hnav khaub ncaws thiab lub ntsej muag gimp blasted hauv kitschy floral prints thiab dalmatian chaw. Cov no yog louche zoo li, uas zoo li parody lub uppity fashions ntawm Harrods cov neeg siv khoom. Tab sis lawv tuaj yeem yooj yim raug xa tawm raws li ib feem ntawm Richard Quinn qhia, tsuas yog tig mus rau sab nraub qaum ntawm Jenner-Kardashian ob peb lub hlis tom qab.

MARTIN MARGIELA

Raws li Bowery txuas ntxiv thawb cov kev txwv ntawm lub cev thiab cov duab puab hauv xyoo 90s, nws cov qauv tsim tau nce zuj zus thiab ua rau tib neeg indiscernibly. Ib qho piv txwv tshwj xeeb yog puff-cum-dandelion headdress uas tau ua los ntawm cov khaubncaws sab nraud povtseg ntawm tulle, obscuring Bowery lub ntsej muag tag nrho. Tib lub taub hau tau tshwm sim hauv Margiela's SS09 sau. Ib yam li ntawd, Bowery cov kua nplaum-dribbled taub hau kuj tau tshwm sim hauv Margiela, ua haujlwm zoo rau hauv crystalised balaclava.

Cov no yog cov tit-ntsis ntawm Bowery cov keeb kwm, uas Margiela weaves rau hauv nws tus kheej lub ntiaj teb freakish, tsim kom zoo nkauj uas paub meej tab sis thaum kawg unsettling. Nws yog qhov nco txog Junya Watanabe, uas tau hais txog Bowery cov duab tsis tu ncua thoob plaws hauv nws txoj haujlwm rau kev ua kom tsaus ntuj - AW06 tau ntxhov siab PVC lub taub hau thiab AW09 ua haujlwm Bowery's Matisse-style shadowed make-up.

SUPREME

Muaj tsawg heev uas Supreme yuav tsis emblazon nws lub logo hla - hluav taws kub hnyiab, nunchucks, Louis Vuitton - thiab hauv 2020, nws yog Leigh Bowery uas tau txais kev pom zoo hypebeast foob. Nrog rau ib qho kev faib ua feem ntawm cov nyiaj tau los mus rau Visual AIDS (ib lub koom haum New York-based), nws tau ua pov thawj rau qhov muaj txiaj ntsig zoo thiab muaj txiaj ntsig thoob ntiaj teb ntawm Bowery cov duab. Txawm tias tsis muaj keeb kwm yav dhau los, decontextualised ntawm lub hoodie, los yog yees duab-luam mus rau lub t-shirt, Bowery txoj kev ntes ntawm tus kheej curation tau dhau los ua kev ntshaw, cov cim kab lis kev cai hauv lawv tus kheej txoj cai.