Ditching NYC rau Paris, Vejas yog tus neeg xaiv tsa LVMH kom paub

2023 Tus sau: Mary Ward | [email protected]. Kawg hloov kho: 2023-07-27 20:18

Tus Tsim Kho Vejas Kruszewski yog tus neeg yau tshaj plaws los raug xaiv tsa rau € 300, 000 nqi zog - tab sis nws lub hnub nyoog tsis yog qhov zoo tshaj plaws rau nws

Thaum lub sijhawm sib tham no lub lim tiam dhau los hauv Paris, Vejas Kruszewski tseem tsis tau pom tias nws tau ua nws mus rau qhov kawg ntawm LVMH nqi zog, nqaim los ntawm cov npe luv ntawm 23. Nws, nrog rau xya Lwm tus, yuav raug nthuav tawm rau pawg neeg txiav txim siab uas suav nrog Karl Lagerfeld, Nicolas Ghesquière thiab Phoebe Philo rau npe tab sis ob peb tug. Raws li tus kws tsim qauv hluas tshaj plaws uas tau koom nrog hauv kev sib tw, Kruszewski xav tsis thoob txawm tias raug xaiv - cia nyob ib leeg los ua tus neeg kawg - nyob rau hauv kev sib tw ntawm kev yeej qhov kev ntshaw € 300, 000 nyiaj ntsuab nqi zog thiab kev cob qhia.

Ob yam uas cov neeg sau xov xwm feem ntau sau Vejas nrog yog 'qhia tus kheej' thiab ' hluas' (nws muaj 19 xyoos) tab sis thaum pom nws cov ntawv sau tshiab kawg, tsis muaj ib yam dab tsi tshwm sim hauv cov khaub ncaws. Tsis yog nws zoo li yuav fazed los ntawm cov neeg txiav txim plaub ntug thiab cov kws tshaj lij kev lag luam uas tuaj nrhiav nws txoj haujlwm ntawm LVMH nqi zog showcase. Qhov tseeb, qhov no yog Kruszewski thawj zaug mus rau Paris, thiab nws tau hnov zoo los ntawm lub zog ntawm lub nroog uas tab tom muaj kev sib tw tshiab ntawm lub zog nrog cov ntawv sau xws li Koche thiab Y / Project tau txais kev saib xyuas nrog rau lub tsev lag luam tshiab xws li Vetements thiab Jacquemus.

Vejas tshwm sim hauv Paris tsis tau txawm tias yuav tsum nyob hauv cov kav dej. Ib lub lis piam ua ntej lawv tab tom yuav nthuav qhia lawv cov AW16 sau hauv New York, nrog rau qhov chaw thiab lub sijhawm nthuav tawm ruaj ntseg, lawv tau txais kev hu los ntawm LVMH los hais tias lawv yog ib feem ntawm kev xaiv. "Kuv tig mus rau Saam Emme (nws tus khub ua lag luam) thiab hais tias 'Cia peb tshem tawm txhua yam thiab txav mus rau Paris!" "Kruszewski nco qab. Thiab yog li ntawd nyob rau hauv ib lub tsev me me tucked nyob rau hauv Marais, nyob rau hauv midst muaj kev txaus siab los ntawm buyers thiab xovxwm, Kruszewski tau buzzing los ntawm lub nroog ntawm lub teeb. Raws li nws tau hais tias, "Paris yog lub pob zeb huv rau peb."

Ntawm no, Kruszewski qhov kev sau ntawm tactile textures thiab tam sim no core pieces - re-engineered shearling tsho, bombers, ris ntauv txhav thiab sweatshirts - yuav hais lus rau lawv tus kheej. Kruszewski's aesthetic uas yog ib zaug thaum ub thiab futuristic yog ntau tsom thiab ntau yam khoom tsom. Nws mob siab rau molding Vejas rau hauv ib hom khoom uas haum rau qhov nws hu ua "lwm yam khoom kim heev" thiab raws li ib tug ntawm LVMH finalists, tus npau suav ntawd zoo li tangible. Ntawm no, nws hais lus tawg tawm ntawm New York txoj kev zam hauv av thiab ua rau Vejas lub xub ntiag resonate deb dhau nws.

Vim li cas koj thiaj thim koj qhov kev nthuav qhia New York thiab txav txhua yam mus rau Paris?

Vejas Kruszewski: Kuv xav tias muaj ntau yam tshwm sim hauv New York tam sim no nrog cov npe hluas thiab txhua tus tau sib tw ua ke, thaum, piv txwv li, Eckhaus Latta tau nyob ib puag ncig yuav luag kaum lub caij nyoog… Yog li peb tau ntxhov siab me ntsis.

Puas tau ua phem dhau lawm?

Vejas Kruszewski: Ntau dhau thiab tsis muaj zog. Kuv xav ncaim ntawm qhov ntawd. Nws tsis muaj tseeb txawm hais tias kuv yog New York tus tsim qauv thaum peb tsis nyob hauv New York.

Koj tau pom qhov kev hloov pauv New York-Paris li cas?

Saam Emme: Nws yog qhov ua kom rov qab los rau Paris yog tias tib neeg coj peb rau lub ntsej muag thiab lawv tsis muaj cov kev xav ua ntej ntawm peb yog leej twg - lawv tsuas yog pom LVMH-tau lees paub daim ntawv lo tshiab nrog lub ntsiab lus muaj zog. Thaum kawg, peb lub hom phiaj yog los ua ib hom khoom kim heev uas raug cai nrog lub neej ntev, yog li nws yog txoj hauv kev zoo los cais peb tus kheej.

Koj tau hais yav dhau los koj cov khaub ncaws hauv kev teeb tsa thiab nrog cov ntsiab lus. Puas tseem ceeb rau koj, kom tib neeg pom koj cov khaub ncaws ntawm lawv tus kheej?

Vejas Kruszewski: Peb yuav tsum ua haujlwm ntawm kev tso khaub ncaws hauv ib lub ntsiab lus, uas yog qhov koj tuaj yeem ua nrog kev ua yeeb yam. Qhov no tsuas yog chav ua yeeb yam xwb, yog li nws zoo li cov khoom lag luam. Tab sis tib lub sij hawm, kuv xav kom paub tseeb tias nws tsis pom raws li ib tug kos duab project thiab es tsis txhob yog saib raws li ib tug tsim nyog cov khoom yuav tsum.

Dab tsi yog qhov kev taw qhia tshiab rau cov khoom no? Qhov no xav tias poj niam ntau dua thiab tsom ntsoov heev

Vejas Kruszewski: Zoo, peb kuj tau thawb ntau dua rau hauv cov khaub ncaws poj niam tam sim no, yog li kuv tau sim ua qee qhov hnav khaub ncaws ntxiv. Tam sim no nws yog poj niam ntau dua, tab sis tom qab ntawd tseem muaj cov staples ntawm lub hom, lub tsho thiab ris ntauv txhav - Kuv tsuas yog nthuav rau qhov ntawd. Kuv tau sketching ntau, thiab vim li cas cov khoom sau me me yog tias muaj ntau yam uas zoo li tsis zoo ntawm daim ntawv tab sis tom qab ntawd, los ntawm kev txhais lawv mus rau hauv lub neej tiag tiag, lawv tsis ua haujlwm. Kuv xav txiav qee yam dua li qhia qee yam uas tsis zoo.

Hari Nef tau ua tus txhawb nqa thaum ntxov ntawm koj txoj haujlwm thiab nws tau nthuav tawm hauv koj phau ntawv saib tshiab kawg. Nws puas yog tus neeg Vejas lossis tus neeg?

Vejas Kruszewski: Kuv xav tias nws muaj ntau tus neeg sib txawv, tab sis vim tias nws tuaj yeem ua tau ntau tus neeg ntawm ntau lub sijhawm. Nws yog ib tug actress! Kuv xav tias nws ua rau tus neeg uas kuv xav txog thaum kuv tsim, thaum nws tsis xav txog kuv tus kheej. Tab sis qhov funny yog tias nws yeej haum cov khaub ncaws zoo dua li 16-xyoo-laus slim qauv. Qhov tseeb, kuv ua ntau tus txiv neej daim kom haum rau kuv tus kheej thiab cov mannequin peb muaj zoo li US 4 as opposed to a 0.

Koj ua haujlwm tau zoo heev thiab kov-raws li. Tham nrog peb ntawm qee cov ntaub rau cov khoom no

Vejas Kruszewski: Kuv pom cov tawv tawv tawv tawv xim av uas yuav luag zoo li xeb thiab tom qab ntawd kuj yog xim liab. Thiab lawv yog cov tseem tshuav los ntawm kev tsim rooj tog. Nws ua rau kuv nco txog qhov nqaij tawv. Kuj tseem muaj shaved tshis plaub. Kuv nyiam txoj kev nws suab - shaved fur. Cov ntaub plaub yog los ntawm tsev neeg ua haujlwm hauv ltalis. Cov khoom siv sweatshirt yog ib yam uas kuv nyiam ua haujlwm nrog vim nws paub zoo, tab sis qhov no zoo nkaus li spongy thiab nws muaj plaub-txoj kev ncab. Nws yuav nthuav ua qee qhov kev txhim kho ntaub rau lub caij tom ntej yog tias kuv muaj peev xwm them taus.

Puas muaj cov ntsiab lus pib rau kev sau?

Vejas Kruszewski: Kuv tau saib ntau yam ntawm Noguchi tshiab teeb pom kev zoo - tsuas yog lub tswv yim ntawm ib yam dab tsi uas tau tsim heev, tab sis tom qab ntawd nws zoo li cov duab organic, vim nws yog tag nrho. spherical heev, tab sis tom qab ntawd kuj saib Brâncuși - cov taub hau tshwj xeeb uas nws muaj kuab heev hauv cov duab, thiab nws zoo li tib neeg tsim thiab zoo li qhov sib piv ntawm qee yam organic thiab tib neeg tsim. Qhov kuv xav ua mus rau tom ntej rau lub caij tom ntej yog ua haujlwm tiag tiag ntawm lub tswv yim ntawm cov khoom uas saib archaeological nyob rau hauv cov nqe lus ntawm kab. Thiab tom qab ntawd muaj kev ua haujlwm los ntawm tus kws kos duab New Zealand, Joe Sheehan. Nws ua cov khoom no zoo li lub xov tooj ntawm tes thiab TV remotes, tab sis nws ua rau lawv tawm ntawm lub pob zeb no uas yog haiv neeg New Zealand, thiab muaj qhov tseem ceeb ntawm sab ntsuj plig hauv Maori kab lis kev cai. Nws yog lub tswv yim no ntawm kev tswj chaw taws teeb niaj hnub uas tseem yog qub.

“Kuv tsis xav kom muaj kev lees paub vim kuv lub hnub nyoog. Kuv tsis xav kom nws yog qhov tseem ceeb, thiab nws yuav tsum tsis yog ib yam dab tsi uas yog kev cuam tshuam - Vejas Kruszewski

Ntawm ntawm LVMH nqi zog showcase, koj puas muaj txoj hauv kev zoo los xaus qhov Vejas hais txog rau tus neeg uas tsis tau pib nrog koj thiab koj ua dab tsi?

Saam Emme:Nws zoo li hnav khaub ncaws, hnav zoo heev. Nws yog daim rau leej twg xav hnav lawv, tab sis nws yog noj cov ntsiab lus paub thiab twisting lawv nyob rau hauv ib txoj kev uas me ntsis txawv txawv los yog tsis xav li ntawd.

Vejas Kruszewski:Thiab tsis yog lub sijhawm tam sim no, peb tau xav txog cov khaub ncaws keeb kwm uas koj tsis tuaj yeem tso rau ntawm lub sijhawm ntawm keeb kwm.

Saam Emme:Ib txhia neeg tuaj pom thiab zoo li, 'Au no futuristic heev' tab sis peb xav tias nws zoo li yav tom ntej, tsis dhau qhov chaw-hnub nyoog los yog tswv yim dhau lawm.

Vejas Kruszewski:Thiab kuv twv tias tus neeg hnav nws raws li tus neeg siv khoom uas kuv pom yog ib tug hluas zoo li peb, lossis nws yog poj niam laus, 40 lossis 50…Kuv kwv yees tias nws yog ib yam ntawm cov neeg uas kuv tau pom tias yuav yuav nws, lawv tau txhais tus kheej heev.

Lawv yeej paub tseeb ntawm lawv tus kheej?

Saam Emme:Peb tau tham txog lub hauv paus ntawm kev ua tus kheej ib yam nkaus thiab uas cuam tshuam nrog kev txiav txim siab kev sib deev lossis kev zoo nkauj rau koj tus kheej, txhais tau tias koj xav nyob hauv lub ntiaj teb dhau los koj cov khaub ncaws.

Nws ua rau koj chim thaum neeg nug koj txog koj lub hnub nyoog?

Vejas Kruszewski: Kuv tsis xav kom luag thuam vim kuv lub hnub nyoog. Kuv tsis xav kom nws yog qhov tseem ceeb, thiab nws yuav tsum yog ib yam dab tsi uas yog kev cuam tshuam.

Nws yuav ua rau tib neeg xav tsis thoob tias koj paub tias koj xav kom Vejas ua li cas vim nws yog qhov tshwj xeeb

Vejas Kruszewski: Kuv paub tias kuv zoo siab nrog kuv tus kheej ua ib tus neeg, Kuv tsis tuaj yeem hais nws raws nraim. Kuv xav tias txhua yam yog los ntawm qhov chaw uas xav thawb mus tom ntej tab sis nrog kev paub txog yav dhau los thiab kev xav txog yam uas tau npaj tseg rau yav tom ntej.